It happened again the other day… We had two different sets of guests arrive within the same couple of days who’d started their trips in Hilo and were aching to see the sun.  This has happened so many times that whenever prospective guests ask us about splitting up their stay between Hilo and Kona, we try to clearly describe the two very different climates and what to expect.  It’s a difficult task.  We don’t want to sound like we’re just trying to sell more nights at our Inn, but we do want to be truthful about the weather patterns.  We’re always trying to help guests prepare and plan.  At the end of the day, we want them to be happy. 
The problem is that the drear and gray that define Hilo’s weather seem to catch many visitors unaware.  Especially if you’ve never been to the Big Island, it can be difficult to envision how its many mirco-climates can actually effect your experience, even when reading through tourist literature.
To get down to the point, Hilo is notoriously damp and overcast.  We’ve heard stories of mildewed clothes in closets and mold infestations and dripping wallpaper, etc.  Each island has a rainy side and a sunny side.  The rain makes for the dramatic waterfalls and beautiful botanical gardens, but it can also be a dreary backdrop for a vacation.  I can’t tell you how many visitors we’ve had who’ve stayed there first, often splitting a one week or two week stay between Hilo and Kona, and are desperate for sun once they arrive in Kona.  We’ve had more than one guest say that they wished they’d limited their time on the other side and spent the bulk of their stay here.
Everyone is different, of course.  We had some guests recently who were from Colorado and found the humidity of Hilo soothing in contrast to their cold, dry home.  For many of our guests who’ve come from Alaska or the Pacific Northwest, Hilo feels to be just another small, weather-beaten town, for other guests, it can feel charming and funky.  Even for guests who do spend their stay on the Kona side, we do suggest at least a day trip around the island to see Hawaii Botanical Gardens, perhaps Akaka and Kahuna and/or Rainbow Falls, and the lovely winding Hamakua Coastline.  If I had one week on the island, I’d spend my time in Kona and do a day trip to the other side.  If I had two weeks, I may spend a day or two on the other side (Hilo, Volcano, or Honokaa/Waipio), and the bulk of my time in Kona.   

We just returned from a two-day mini break on the Hilo-side of the island. The green and damp, mist and rain, fragrant ginger and coqui frogs make for a relaxing change of scene for us.  

The first day, we went to Queen Liliuokalani Park and Coconut Island. It was a sunny clear day and both were gorgeous. Queen L Park is a great place to relax with a book and Coconut Island is a wonderful place for children (safe areas to get into the water, soft short grass and shade). We also visited the Hawaii Tropical Botanical Gardens on this trip and were quite impressed. The gardens span a huge piece of property that unfolds down to the ocean’s edge, so it feels like you’re wandering through lush natural rainforest, rather than a manicured garden. We saw some extremely exotic plants including our new favorite, the white bat plant. We also made a visit to Akaka and Kahuna falls, both lovely (although almost overwhelmingly touristy and crowded) and marveled at the huge old mossy bamboo and all the different kinds of ginger. (We also like Rainbow Falls, which is less crowded and in a park with some huge old banyan trees.)

We didn’t stop at Kalopa Park this time, which is our favorite place on that side of the island. It is way up a winding farm road off the highway, about twenty minutes south of Honokaa. It has a park area with native hibiscus growing and a nature trail, as well as a longer hike through beautiful dense forest to misty cattle pasture, then back along a deep ravine through dripping damp eucalyptus and ginger. Kalopa is an off-the-beaten path sort of place, a beautiful hidden forest treasure.  

Although we wouldn't want to live on the east side, we do enjoy a visit now and then.  The rain does make for some outstandingly lush scenery. There’s something haunting and special about a dark, misty forest scented with yellow ginger flowers and damp earth.