Blog

A Typical Day

Last week Ken and I had a slow day so we went up to town together to run some errands.  After our regular trips to Costco and Lowes, we stopped by the Old Airport Park.  This park lies on the north edge of Kailua, at the end of the Kuakini Highway.  We'd been there before but not with our little son, Conlan.  It was an overcast day but we were glad for this, since the park can be extremely hot and bright.  This long yellow-sand beach stretches along the blue ocean, strikingly beautiful and almost always deserted.  We parked and walked in, looking for a quiet place to relax.  

It was a weekday, midday, and like most parks at this time of the week, was practically empty.  There was one large family preparing a fish BBQ, and a mom and baby sleeping under a tree, but we were otherwise alone.  We found a slightly hidden area with a sandy patch and two large tide pools - perfectly kiddie-size.  The surf was strong and foamy waves crashed up on the rocks but dissipated as they spilled over into the tide pools.  Ken and Conlan played in the sun on the sand and I walked down to a pool and slipped in.  

The water was perfectly warm and soft, like a bath.  As I always do in large tide pools, I start on my belly and walk along on my hands, viewing the baby fish and hermit crabs underneath me.  I then flip over and float on my back, drinking in the sun.  I know you're not supposed to sun-bathe, but I just can't help it at times like this.  I lie there and let the ocean cradle me, the sun warm me.  I feel like I am being held and cared for, embraced by the sun and the water.  My ears are submerged so I can hear the crispy-bacon-frying sound of the little fish nibbling, and the muffled roar of the waves.  I feel I could fall asleep like this.  

After we returned home later that day, I went down to the lanai and had a soak in the hot tub.  There was no one around and the house was perfectly quiet.  The mist that had been sitting up on the hillside all day finally came down and a soft warm rain began to fall.  I sat there in the warmth, drinking a glass of wine, and watched the raindrops gently break the smooth surface of the pool water.  I looked out over the Bay, noting the shifting colors of both the sky and the ocean as the rain came down and the weather shifted.  The sun began to burn a bright orange-pink hole in the gray sky, and I wondered if this evening our neighborhood owl would fly over the lanai.  The world around me was hushed and damp and I had a strange sense that all the green growing things were breathing and sighing as it rained.

As I sat in the hot tub I thought about how perfect this day was, and how typical.  There are so many days like this here, so many moments that are so over-the-top lovely you can't imagine them being any better.  I was reminded what it is like to be a visitor to this magical island, how precious this place is, how healing.  The island gives and gives, and we are always thankful.

Our new Spa Room

We have begun renovations on what will become the Luana Inn's spa room. We'll be offering massages and facials from a couple of our favorite local providers.

When it was originally built, the addition that will become the spa room was a two story aviary. The original owners of the house had a collection of cockatiels, parrots and other assorted exotic birds. Apparently the mess and noise got to be too much and they converted the downstairs portion to a utility room and the upstairs to a greenhouse, where they grew bromeliads. We've always wanted to do "something" with the space, but weren't sure what. 

Recently, we decided a spa would be perfect. Since the room has a huge screened area overlooking our koi pond and waterfall, it has that lovely, relaxing white noise effect that people pay good money for on CD. It has a nice large skylight and has an airy, light feel for most of the day.

A new floor, a fresh coat of paint, and some plumbing and electrical work should all be done by the end of June. 

The attached image of the room is from just after the removal of the old floor and all the old shelving used to house the plants.

Ken

What's the deal with the dolphins?

One of the fantastic things about living here is being able to see native wildlife in its native habitat. During humpback season we can see whales from the house as they relax right off shore. When we swim or snorkel, we see a variety of beautiful reef fish (sometimes the water is so clear you can see the yellow tangs from shore), and often see green sea turtles.  At dusk we are often greeted by the native owl, pu'eo, and in the afternoon we often see the native hawk, io, soaring high above our neighborhood.  It always feels lucky to see these beautiful animals.

The animal that probably receives the most attention is the spinner dolphin.  There is a local pod that moves up and down the South Kona shore, often resting in Honaunau and Kealakekua Bays. The dolphins move out into deep waters to fish at night, and utilize the shallow Bays for rest and as nurseries.  Kealakekua Bay is a nature preserve but also a major tourist attraction, so balancing use of the Bay for recreation whilst maintaining its pristine condition is a serious source of concern and tension on the island.

The effect of growing interaction between the dolphins in the Bay and humans has been and is being studied.  From what we have read here locally and what we have learned from a guest of ours who is a marine biologist and has spent time living at the Bay and studying dolphin behavior, excessive, close contact with humans is proving to be detrimental to the dolphins' well-being.  Their numbers are starting to decline.

If you are swimming or kayaking in the Bay and the dolphins happen to approach you, which they often do because they are inquisitive animals, consider yourself lucky.  It is undeniably magical and wonderful to see such a beautiful creature in its home.  It is best, however, not to pursue them.  Let them come to you.  Keep in mind that the Bay is the dolphins' bedroom and nursery, and that when you are in it, you are a guest in their home.

Spinner dolphins, like Hawaiian monk seals, green sea turtles, and humpback whales are protected by the Endangered Species Act; it is illegal to touch or approach them. You must stay 50 feet away from a sea turtle, 50 yards away from a dolphin, and 150 yards away from a humpback whale.  Not all whale-watching tours or wildlife-encounter tours are respectful of these rules.  Please be mindful of this as you research tours, and don't be afraid to ask questions. It's in the best interest of everyone that Hawaii's precious creatures be treated with respect.

Cultural Festival June 27 and June 28

Another wonderful thing to keep in mind about visiting the Big Island in the summer is that summer is the season for cultural festivals.  They happen all over the island, but the one that is closest to us here at Luana is the festival at Pu'uhonua o Honaunau, the City of Refuge National Park.  This year it takes place over the weekend of June 27 and June 28.  The 27th will be the craft-day and the 28th will have Hawaiian food-tasting.  Usually the events open and close with a traditional ceremony, and there are lots of wonderful displays and activities to try like carving ipu (wooden gourds used like drums in hula), chanting, dancing, canoe rides, lei making, weaving, etc. Last year we were lucky enough to see children dance hula.  It is a very special opportunity to see master craftsmen and women doing what they love, and to experience some native Hawaiian traditions in an extremely beautiful setting.

Here is the press release from Pu'uhonua o Honaunau.  For more information, please visit their site: http://www.nps.gov/puho.

Pu`uhonua o Honaunau Celebrates
48th Annual Hawaiian Cultural Festival

Pu`uhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park will be celebrating its 48th Anniversary and Annual Cultural Festival and on Saturday and Sunday, June 27 and 28 from 9:00 am to 3:00 pm. The theme is “Na Mea Hana Lima na Kupuna” -the working hands of our elders. Many activities are planned for both days including a royal court procession, cultural demonstrations and hula. Saturday features canoe rides and Sunday includes a hukilau and Hawaiian food tasting.

We welcome everyone to join us in experiencing the history and culture of Hawai`i and the unique Honaunau area. Bring your family and friends and spend a day in the park. Come prepared for hot weather; bring water, sturdy walking shoes, hat and sunscreen. Park fees are waived for the weekend of this special event.  

Why come to the Big Island in the summer?

Because so much of the mainland is nice in the summer, some people may wonder if it's worth traveling to Hawaii this time of year.  Well, it is!  The first thing to know about summertime on the Big Island is that the water is warmest and calmest now.  Where I'm writing from, here on the Kona Coast, the waves are minimal, the water is clear, and there's lots of sunshine.  Kealakekua Bay, Manini Beach, Keei Beach, and Two Step are often like a large bathtub this time of year. Walking down to Manini Beach, slipping into the gentle water, and floating on my back looking up at the blue sky is one of my greatest joys in life.  

The other important thing to note about the Inn is that because we're down near the water it never gets too hot here.  Our guests from Pheonix and Austin and L.A. remark on the comfortable climate here.  The temperature year-round down here in our little micro-climate never passes eighty-five degrees Fahrenheit.  We're lucky to have lots of sun tempered by the cooling ocean breeze.  Of course we're biased, but we think it's perfect!

Walking from the Inn

When I stay somewhere new I love to be able to walk right from my accommodation. I like to get a feel for a place this way. It's always a disappointment to me when the place I'm staying at is on a bad road or is so isolated I have to drive to get anywhere interesting. I thought I should address this because I am a BIG walker and have been for years and one of the things I love about our location is that you CAN walk right out the gate and enjoy some beautiful walks, runs, and bike rides.  

If you turn right out of our gate you can get down to the water in ten or fifteen minutes (depending on how fast a walker you are). You'll pass gorgeous fragrant trees and tons of wonderfully weird exotic plants and eventually end up at the Bay. Our quiet road meanders through a residential neighborhood and you'll see some cool local houses and maybe meet some fellow walkers and friendly dogs. The water is gorgeous of course, and many of our guests walk down daily to swim and snorkel. Some guests also walk down late in the day to take a leisurely dip at Napo'opo'o Beach while watching the sun set, or have a picnic-dinner at Manini Beach.  

At the water Napo'opo'o Road turns into Pu'uhonua Road which flattens out and will eventually take you to the City of Refuge national park (Pu'uhonua o Honaunau) and then back up to Hwy 11 (a great loop for bikers). If you want a flat, hot run take Pu'uhonua road, if you want a cooler, curvy road, head to Middle Keei.  

If you turn left out our gate you can walk up to the coffee mill and through the exotic fruit garden (you can stop at Kalama's store for shave ice or the coffee mill for an espresso on your way back). I've walked and run out Middle Keei Road and out Painted Church road. Both these roads are surrounded by farms like Napo'opo'o so you can see lots of coffee growing, along with breadfruit, avocado, citrus, and lots of sweet-smelling flowers. I often see pheasants and turkeys on these walks, along with lots of other wonderful birds. I’ve walked these roads on moonlit nights and watched the moon rise up behind the hill. It’s quite a site! You may even be lucky enough to see a native owl, pueo.

If you enjoy walks and runs you'll have lots of beautiful opportunities here. Walking or running around the neighborhood is a fantastic way to experience this magical place. You'll see some fascinating bird and plant life, smell some gorgeous flowers, and of course enjoy lots of fantastic ocean and sky views.

Farming

The Big Island is a farming island.  Due to the island's diverse micro-climates a variety of crops can be grown year-round.  Kona is famous for being one of the world's excellent coffee-growing regions, but the Big Island produces many other major crops including macadamia nuts, papaya, bananas, and flowers such as orchids, anthurium, and protea.  At a single meal you may have delicate local lettuce and juicy tomatoes and cucumbers grown in the cool moist Waimea uplands, beef and milk from local cattle raised on the Hilo-side, mushrooms from the damp Hamakua area, marlin caught off the Kona coast, poi from Waipio valley, and passionfruit from the Hawi area. 

Right in our neighborhood we have: a plumeria farm, a large coffee farm (although most people also grow a few plants on their property), a huge coffee roastery, a macadamia nut processing plant, a queen bee farm, a honey processing plant, a plumeria farm, and a large orchid farm next door.  In addition to these large operations, everyone we know grows some food on their property.  Papayas grow like weeds here and just about everyone in our neighborhood has some papaya trees, as well as citrus which does great down here near the ocean in the sun and heat. Here at the Inn we grow green figs, tangerines, starfruit, white pineapple (a local delicacy), mangoes, and coconuts.  We also rotate various vegetables and herbs like lemongrass, sweet potatoes, kale, citronella, and amaranth.  (We also just added a Tahitian lime and a Meyer lemon and will continue to add more food-trees each year.)  Our neighbors produce oranges, limes, lemons, avocados, pummelos, bananas, tangelos, lychee, surinam cherry, and jaboticaba, among others.  We often share and/or exchange fruit since it is so plentiful, different things are ready at different times, and we all grow different varieties.  It is a wonderful luxury to live in a place with so much local food and such a strong sense of pride in the land.

Harvesting Fruit

Our green figs are in season!  Like just about everyone here in South Kona, we grow food on our property.  This is a farming area and our neighbors are growing orchids, plumeria, queen bees, coffee, and all kinds of fruit.  On our property we grow papaya, green figs, starfruit, tangerines, two kinds of mango, and lots of white pineapple.  We planted a Tahitian lime and a Meyer lemon last year, and have continued adding various vegetables around the property, including kale, sweet potatoes, and chard.  One of the best things about living here is the ability to grow such a wealth of beautiful and tasty things!

Kona winds

One of the best things about living down here near the water is that we get a wonderful breeze flowing through the house throughout the day.  You always hear about the tradewinds in Hawaii, but we also experience the Kona winds down here.  The tradewinds blow west from across the island from offshore Hilo (on the opposite side of the island).  They travel over the mountains and can bring rain, clouds, cool temperatures (at night and in the winter), storms, and smog from Kilauea (vog). However, down here so close to the ocean we feel the Kona winds that blow in from the ocean and push the rain and vog back up mauka (towards the mountains).  It's the Kona winds that keep our little neighborhood in its own special micro-climate with warm dry days and lots of sunshine - perfect for growing plumeria and citrus fruit.  As I sit here and write I feel the cool wind blowing through the house and hear it moving the palm fronds and the windchime outside.  These soft  sounds, along with doves' gentle cooing and birdsong are the background sounds of life here at the Inn. 

Spa Room

The Spa Room is just about finished and will be fantastic!  My mother and I had facials with Judy in it to test it out and they were great.  The room is bright and airy (it is basically open-air) and right above our koi pond.  The sound of the waterfall and the feel of the wind breezing through is incredibly relaxing.  I've had a lot of spa treatments and I really like the feel of this room; you can feel the wind and the air so its like you're outside and yet it's completely private.